By Kevin Collison
Denver-based Atomic Provisions has launched a culinary assault on Westport that between biscuit dishes, ice cream and New York-style pizza should satisfy the heartiest of eaters from sunup until long after dark.
The latest dining transplant from the Mile High City to Westport is housed in the renovated, century-old former City Ice Building at 42nd and Pennsylvania and includes four operations: Denver Biscuit Company, Atomic Cowboy, Fat Sully’s and Frozen Gold.
It’s just up the hill from Snooze A.M. Eatery, a Denver breakfast place that opened at 4140 Broadway in early February.
Drew Shader, owner of Atomic, said his firm started scouting Kansas City about three years ago and chose Westport for its first operation outside Colorado after considering the Crossroads too.
“We decided on Kansas City because it was a really up-and-coming food scene,” he said. “We felt there was a need for a breakfast place in this area.”
Work started over a year ago renovating its historic digs, and Atomic Provisions had hoped to open its food and beverage concepts in February. Then Covid came along and construction hit the pause button.
But beginning July 28, Denver Biscuit, Atomic Cowboy and Fat Sully’s will open to the public. The Frozen Gold ice cream parlor is expected to open in mid-to late August.
Westport got the nod over the Crossroads because of its greater daytime activity, Shader said. It also had the neighborhood feel of Atomic’s first Denver location on East Colfax. It now has five locations.
“All of our locations are very neighborhood oriented,” he said. “For us, it’s all about the food and the space.
“We put a lot of energy into our spaces with lots of steel and wood, and distinctive seating areas.”
Atomic actually purchased another historic limestone building in Westport before it settled on the Ice House.
It bought the old Plaza Laundry building across the street at 4200 Pennsylvania, but after further reflection, wound up leasing it to be the newly-renovated home of Gould Evans architecture.
“This one fits us better,” Shader said.
The Ice House renovation preserved the old stone walls while adding some fun design flourishes like a mounted Buffalo head, a 20-foot neon cowgirl and a trippy mural featuring stampeding astronauts.
The revamped Ice House also features a covered patio area that can be enclosed during the winter months.
And just to show their enthusiasm for their first outlet outside Colorado, Atomic has a big neon Chiefs arrowhead symbol on the wall.
But it’s the food that Shader believes will be the big draw. It’s tasty and definitely filling. You may want to nap after eating one of the big biscuit sandwiches or biscuit plates.
And yes, the sausage gravy is deliciously seasoned.
“Everything is centered around our biscuits,” he said. “We do everything from scratch. We like to do a few things very well.”
Denver Biscuit’s hours will be from 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. on weekdays, and until 3 p.m. on weekends.
Fat Sully’s pizza will be open from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. on weekdays, and until 10 p.m. on weekends. The pizza place also has a walk-up window on the north side of the building that will have later hours when Covid considerations allow.
The Atomic Cowboy bar will open Sunday through Thursday from 7 a.m. to 10 p.m., and Fridays and Saturdays from 7 a.m. to midnight although it may stay open later, again depending on the Covid situation.
Frozen Gold will serve its gourmet soft ice cream from 11:30 a.m to 9 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, and 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m Friday and Saturday.
As for opening up just a half-block from Snooze, Shader said its a coincidence that another Denver restaurant wound up in close proximity.
“We love what’s going on with Snooze, we’re buddies of theirs, but it was totally unplanned,” he said.
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